As you know, I've spent more and more time chasing after wines in our far end of the Valley recently than I ever expected to, but the fact is that I keep stumbling over really good efforts, some of which are better than average by just about any measure you want to use considering the prices asked. Now I'm wondering exactly what we're supposed to be calling this little pocket of wine country; in the eight years I've lived here I've never heard the geographical area identified specifically in reference to its viti/viniculture. Maybe there's something out there, but if not, perhaps the Shasta/Lassen Wine Trail fits as well as anything else; the two mountains are certainly our area's dominant geological and geographical features, and sort of anchor everything else, including the lakes and rivers. so I think I'll use it as a catch-all unless and until someone can correct me.
Anyway, we're pretty pleased to report that we've just had what may be one of the most promising reds to date, that wine being the 2012 Tehama County Zinfandel from Burnsini Vineyards, in Cottonwood, a small town just a long 2-iron and a pitching wedge south of Redding. This is a good little wine: color is deep purple-red, nose shows some blackberries-and-tar notes that are a bit closed for the first hour or so the wine is open but blossom out pretty quickly after, and the fruit is rustic and spicy, with just a tiny bit too much residual sugary-stuff on the finish at first, but that, too, seems to integrate itself into the wine with air. All-in-all a good effort that speaks well for the future, and a really nice surprise at $12.99 retail. Perfect wine for barbecue and burgers, which just happens to be one of our favorite ways to spend a summer evening, strangely enough...We'll find out more about Burnsini in the near future, as well as taking a look at some other of their wines, and pass it along; in the meantime, however, you can visit their website or call them at 530-347-4765 to learn about distribution or to order wine direct from the winery.
And, before we get off-track, another excellent example of upstate expertise from McNab Ridge, in Hopland: their superb 2012 Pinotage, the single bottle of which we were in possession disappearing quicker than any red wine we've opened in the recent past. Not to say that anyone in our little group embarassed themselves with a display of greed or selfishness, but at least one taster did come very close and will be more closely watched and supervised in the future. Be that as it may, however, the facts are these: the wine is medium-to-dark purple in color, with a nose of wild strawberries, blackberries, vanilla, and a hint of butterscotch that blossoms immediately as the cork is pulled, persisting as long as there's wine left. On the palate there is a load of ripe, lush fruit, with the strawberry-vanilla character of the bouquet carrying through, along with a hint of coconut and dried flowers on the finish. For those working on spring/summer wine lists, this is a gift: it will serve you well in many different situations, from cocktails and light hors d'oeuvres to lighter, gentler summer menu items that leave many red wine lovers slightly confused and desperate when trying to order something suitable and interesting. We recommend it highly. McNab's distribution still seems to be a bit spotty, so I suggest you go to to their website www.mcnabridge.com or call them at 707-744-1986 for information or to order direct.
In closing, more bad news for you Shasta UFO fans: still no activity to be seen, at least on our side of the old girl. Can't speak for the folks on the north side, but all seems quiet at present; generally, when anyone anywhere claims a sighting it makes all the news outlets in our part of the state, so chances are that there haven't been any portals opening or such goings-on recently. We'll keep our eyes open and ears to the ground, however, and update you periodically.
I'm out for now...
Tuesday, March 10, 2015
Thursday, February 19, 2015
Remarkable wine from Martinelli, a pretty sauvignon blanc from Roth, a very good Shasta County olive oil, and a note to our Ukraine reader(s)
Rarely do we spend much time talking about wines that don't fit our "working man" parameters, one of the most important being a price ceiling in the $25 range, give or take a buck or two to account for market variations. We're making an exception to that rule today, however, because we have been taken completely off guard by a wine we had the pleasure of enjoying during the past week, a striking zin from Sonoma's Martinelli family winery which absolutely falls beyond the borders,.but we're looking at a really pretty sauvignon blanc from Alexander Valley's Roth Vineyards that lies well inside the fence, as well. First, though, I have to say that I come into this review more than a little guilty of prejudice: as many who read this or know me are aware, I love Martinelli's wines. I can't remember ever having been disappointed or unhappy with anything from them. As for Roth, this is an early encounter for me, and if this wine is representative of what they do then you'll hear more in the future.
First, the zin: Martinelli's 2012 edition of their Vellutini Ranch wine which, at least to my mind, is the one zin they produce that can show striking stylistic variations from vintage to vintage. Always very good, but sometimes very different from what you believe to be the norm. At any rate, the 2012 is a knockout at this particular point in time, being deeply-colored with a lush bouquet of ripe blackberries and violets after about an hour's air, but opening faster if decanted. On the palate it's slick fruit, expansive and ripe, finishing fairly quickly but with blueberries and a little wood. It probably won't improve much beyond the next year or so, but drinks beautifully now and is a great addition to any white cloth wine list, especially one that features venison or boar (Colorado folks, pay attention). The more you think about it, the better it gets, and I hope to buy some more before it's all gone.
Next up Roth's 2012 Sauvignon Blanc, which may or may not be the current vintage in release, but is likely representative of what the winery is producing from the grape. We were very impressed, especially at the price, which was a more than reasonable $13 at my local corner specialty market, which is not noted for giving anything away. The wine is crisp and fresh in the nose, with some grapefruit, and shows a good deal of the same just-bottled crisply varietal grassiness on the palate, finishing with a distinct peachy note. All-in-all, for the price, excellent. For you wine-listers, this would be an excellent cocktail or aperitif wine, and the price is right.
We want to take this opportunity, too, to give you all a heads-up regarding a local olive oil producer we've been watching for the last year or so. We were so impressed with the oils when we first discovered them that we weren't sure that the consistency would be there, given that our initial conversation with the owner had us convinced that controls might not be absolute, and that quality might vary from batch to batch. We still don't know whether control is total, but after almost two years of demonstrated consistency of production quality, we're ready to give whole-hearted recommendation to the oils of our neighboring Happy Valley Olive Oil Company. The oils are delicious; clean, peppery, fat, and lush on the palate, and wonderful accompaniments to rustic breads and cheeses. I will learn more and get back to you shortly regarding varietals, locations of the groves, etc. For now, I simply say that they are very good, and you should make an effort to find them, particularly if you're a Norcal reader. Happy Valley is a small rural community just south of Redding, and is one of those little Norcal villages that locals get a funny look on their faces when you ask them what they know about it, but whatever else they're up to out there, these are very good table oils and deserve to be known.They can be reached at 530-246-4104; I don't think there's a website yet, although I was told one was being developed several months back.
Finally, I want to acknowledge that we are aware that we have at least one, and maybe several, readers in Ukraine. We want you to know that we try to understand how difficult your lives must be at present, and we wish you the best of luck and hope that you and yours will remain safe and sound throughout this very difficult time. We would like to hear from you from time to time, if possible, so that we know you're safe and well.
I'm out for now.
First, the zin: Martinelli's 2012 edition of their Vellutini Ranch wine which, at least to my mind, is the one zin they produce that can show striking stylistic variations from vintage to vintage. Always very good, but sometimes very different from what you believe to be the norm. At any rate, the 2012 is a knockout at this particular point in time, being deeply-colored with a lush bouquet of ripe blackberries and violets after about an hour's air, but opening faster if decanted. On the palate it's slick fruit, expansive and ripe, finishing fairly quickly but with blueberries and a little wood. It probably won't improve much beyond the next year or so, but drinks beautifully now and is a great addition to any white cloth wine list, especially one that features venison or boar (Colorado folks, pay attention). The more you think about it, the better it gets, and I hope to buy some more before it's all gone.
Next up Roth's 2012 Sauvignon Blanc, which may or may not be the current vintage in release, but is likely representative of what the winery is producing from the grape. We were very impressed, especially at the price, which was a more than reasonable $13 at my local corner specialty market, which is not noted for giving anything away. The wine is crisp and fresh in the nose, with some grapefruit, and shows a good deal of the same just-bottled crisply varietal grassiness on the palate, finishing with a distinct peachy note. All-in-all, for the price, excellent. For you wine-listers, this would be an excellent cocktail or aperitif wine, and the price is right.
We want to take this opportunity, too, to give you all a heads-up regarding a local olive oil producer we've been watching for the last year or so. We were so impressed with the oils when we first discovered them that we weren't sure that the consistency would be there, given that our initial conversation with the owner had us convinced that controls might not be absolute, and that quality might vary from batch to batch. We still don't know whether control is total, but after almost two years of demonstrated consistency of production quality, we're ready to give whole-hearted recommendation to the oils of our neighboring Happy Valley Olive Oil Company. The oils are delicious; clean, peppery, fat, and lush on the palate, and wonderful accompaniments to rustic breads and cheeses. I will learn more and get back to you shortly regarding varietals, locations of the groves, etc. For now, I simply say that they are very good, and you should make an effort to find them, particularly if you're a Norcal reader. Happy Valley is a small rural community just south of Redding, and is one of those little Norcal villages that locals get a funny look on their faces when you ask them what they know about it, but whatever else they're up to out there, these are very good table oils and deserve to be known.They can be reached at 530-246-4104; I don't think there's a website yet, although I was told one was being developed several months back.
Finally, I want to acknowledge that we are aware that we have at least one, and maybe several, readers in Ukraine. We want you to know that we try to understand how difficult your lives must be at present, and we wish you the best of luck and hope that you and yours will remain safe and sound throughout this very difficult time. We would like to hear from you from time to time, if possible, so that we know you're safe and well.
I'm out for now.
Sunday, February 8, 2015
Our vanishing service culture (and how to turn that to your advantage), and an update on Mt. Shasta UFO activity
I know I can be a little annoying with my persistence in returning to the subject of restaurant staff competence (or the lack of same), but I can't help myself; a lifetime spent immersed in the day-to-day world of waiters, cooks, bussers, dishwashers, and all the other elements of chaos that come together to make up a functioning dining establishment entitles me to an opinion, in my opinion, and I'm compelled to express it on a more or less regular basis. Sometimes it's appreciated and heeded, other times not so much. Either way, I'm not likely to stop.
I should make it clear that there are a lot of things about the general state of affairs in the American restaurant/foodservice industry that bother me, but the one thing that rises to the top most days is the increasing lack of professionalism to be found in the front-of-house (wait staff, primarily) of many dining rooms, and I include eating establishments of all stripes in that statement. People just don't seem to be grounded in the fundamentals of the craft of providing fine table service; a great many of them try hard, but they aren't being adequately trained in most cases, or at least that is the perception of many of us who discuss this on a regular basis. Nor does there appear to be a commitment to excellence on the part of many of the folks charged with managing these people, which bothers me even more.
The argument is made by some managers that the problems are attributable to the quality of employee they are able to attract. They say that the demands placed on employees' time and the odd schedules they must work necessarily limit their ability to hire and retain the best and brightest, and to some degree that argument holds true in a lot of instances: for the most part, no one really wants to be working during the hours that employees of most other businesses are off. They are expected to be available many evenings, weekends, and holidays, and that is not much of an incentive for most folks with other options to find gainful employment.
Having said that, however, I think it's a pretty weak argument in general. There is a certain type of individual who thrives in the hospitality culture, whether hotels, white cloth restaurants, clubs of several stripes, chain-concept foodservice organizations, or straight-on fast-food operations. The successful operator is the one who is able to IDENTIFY, RECRUIT, TRAIN, and RETAIN those individuals, to show them how to carve out a rewarding (and lucrative) career, and then mentor them into their primes as contributors to the good of the company and the satisfaction of the customer. This can be done; I know it can because I have done it throughout my own career, and I am no genius, as many of you already know.
The owner/manager who can create an environment that attracts the best recruits, train them properly, then motivate them on an ongoing basis to perform at the highest level within their capability, will be a successful operator, and one who is admired and respected by his competitors and, maybe more importantly, by his staff. Maybe the best example I have ever seen of this was one of my own early mentors, W. R. "Red" Steger, the long-time general manager of Houston's River Oaks Country Club. For those of you who are not familiar with Houston, or with River Oaks, suffice it to say that the club is located in the heart of one of the city's wealthiest enclaves, and claims as members hundreds of well-educated, well-traveled, sophisticated individuals who uniformly have very high expectations about everything and from everybody. They don't see much humor in poor service, poor food, or poor conditioning of their golf course, or poor anything else, for that matter. Steger, like many club executives, spent a great deal of his time each and every day seeing to it that they were kept happy, and they were, ecstatically so, and demonstrated that fact by rewarding him with contact extension after contract extension, and by making him one of the best-compensated executives the industry has ever seen. All this success came not from the fact that Red was a brilliant agronomist or executive chef, because he wasn't, nor was he nimble and skilled in precision dining room management. What he was, without question, however, was one of the most inspirational leaders I've ever known: a quiet, thoughtful, straightforward gentleman who hired good people, trained them to be "Steger people", led by example, and inspired fierce loyalty in all who served under him. They gave him their best each and every day, with no excuses or stories, and would do anything Red asked of them, because they knew he was going to be there for them come hell or high water. The end result was that everyone benefited: employees, River Oaks' members, Red, the club industry, and in many ways, the city. Red understood the one central truth of the service industry: there is no more valuable asset than good people. Hire the best people you can find, train them well, support and inspire them, and you will separate yourself from the pack. Your people will make you a star.
In closing this rant, just a note to let you all know that you can rest easy: no UFO activity on Shasta since my last post, at least on our side of the mountain. We'll keep you informed.
I should make it clear that there are a lot of things about the general state of affairs in the American restaurant/foodservice industry that bother me, but the one thing that rises to the top most days is the increasing lack of professionalism to be found in the front-of-house (wait staff, primarily) of many dining rooms, and I include eating establishments of all stripes in that statement. People just don't seem to be grounded in the fundamentals of the craft of providing fine table service; a great many of them try hard, but they aren't being adequately trained in most cases, or at least that is the perception of many of us who discuss this on a regular basis. Nor does there appear to be a commitment to excellence on the part of many of the folks charged with managing these people, which bothers me even more.
The argument is made by some managers that the problems are attributable to the quality of employee they are able to attract. They say that the demands placed on employees' time and the odd schedules they must work necessarily limit their ability to hire and retain the best and brightest, and to some degree that argument holds true in a lot of instances: for the most part, no one really wants to be working during the hours that employees of most other businesses are off. They are expected to be available many evenings, weekends, and holidays, and that is not much of an incentive for most folks with other options to find gainful employment.
Having said that, however, I think it's a pretty weak argument in general. There is a certain type of individual who thrives in the hospitality culture, whether hotels, white cloth restaurants, clubs of several stripes, chain-concept foodservice organizations, or straight-on fast-food operations. The successful operator is the one who is able to IDENTIFY, RECRUIT, TRAIN, and RETAIN those individuals, to show them how to carve out a rewarding (and lucrative) career, and then mentor them into their primes as contributors to the good of the company and the satisfaction of the customer. This can be done; I know it can because I have done it throughout my own career, and I am no genius, as many of you already know.
The owner/manager who can create an environment that attracts the best recruits, train them properly, then motivate them on an ongoing basis to perform at the highest level within their capability, will be a successful operator, and one who is admired and respected by his competitors and, maybe more importantly, by his staff. Maybe the best example I have ever seen of this was one of my own early mentors, W. R. "Red" Steger, the long-time general manager of Houston's River Oaks Country Club. For those of you who are not familiar with Houston, or with River Oaks, suffice it to say that the club is located in the heart of one of the city's wealthiest enclaves, and claims as members hundreds of well-educated, well-traveled, sophisticated individuals who uniformly have very high expectations about everything and from everybody. They don't see much humor in poor service, poor food, or poor conditioning of their golf course, or poor anything else, for that matter. Steger, like many club executives, spent a great deal of his time each and every day seeing to it that they were kept happy, and they were, ecstatically so, and demonstrated that fact by rewarding him with contact extension after contract extension, and by making him one of the best-compensated executives the industry has ever seen. All this success came not from the fact that Red was a brilliant agronomist or executive chef, because he wasn't, nor was he nimble and skilled in precision dining room management. What he was, without question, however, was one of the most inspirational leaders I've ever known: a quiet, thoughtful, straightforward gentleman who hired good people, trained them to be "Steger people", led by example, and inspired fierce loyalty in all who served under him. They gave him their best each and every day, with no excuses or stories, and would do anything Red asked of them, because they knew he was going to be there for them come hell or high water. The end result was that everyone benefited: employees, River Oaks' members, Red, the club industry, and in many ways, the city. Red understood the one central truth of the service industry: there is no more valuable asset than good people. Hire the best people you can find, train them well, support and inspire them, and you will separate yourself from the pack. Your people will make you a star.
In closing this rant, just a note to let you all know that you can rest easy: no UFO activity on Shasta since my last post, at least on our side of the mountain. We'll keep you informed.
Tuesday, January 27, 2015
More Norcal wines, beverage training for front-of-the-house staff, and an update on Mt. Shasta flying saucer traffic
As it turns out, we didn't get a chance to make the planned drive over Elkhorn Summit and down the hills and canyons to the coast last week; things kept popping up that were just annoying or worrying enough to cause us to keep delaying it until we finally decided to postpone the trip until March. The upside is that I got some long-needed (and promised) landscaping chores done around the house, and I dodged the always-scary kennel bill from the good folks at Country-Aire who look after our canine companions for us when we travel. They do a great job, and we always rest easy knowing that Lulu and Pom are safe and sound, but it's a little disconcerting that I also know that I'm spending more on them than on my wife and me.
But, back to work. It has occurred to me that I've neglected to bring to your attention several of our far-Norcal wines that we've recently had the pleasure of tasting (drinking, actually) that deserve some love, and I want to correct that over the next few days. As it happens, the two wineries that produce the three wines tasted so far are within a stone's throw of each other (if you can throw a stone a considerable distance); Mount Tehama Winery is at Manton, in Tehama County, and Lassen Peak Winery is just a handful of miles due north, at Shingletown, in Shasta County. Both these wineries are producing rustic, youthful wines from classic varietals, the most successful of which, at this point in time, seem to be the Rhone-ish and Spanish types/styles, which makes more than a little sense given the micro-climates they're working with. I haven't yet had time to taste the full range of offerings from either, but I've been happy enough with the ones I have to be convinced that I should (and will) get to the rest.
The Mount Tehama 2012 Petite Sirah is the first wine I encountered from this little foothills-but-almost-mountainous area, and I liked it even though it has some minor issues that almost disappear with a little air, and will likely age out with a bit more bottle time. The wine is deeply colored and aromatic, with a restrained cedar note overlaying the black fruit and tar, and the nose opens immediately as the cork is pulled. The fruit is very forward, ripe-plummy and blackberryish, and a little bit hot at first (I said rustic, remember?), but it begins to smooth out and soften soon after opening. It finishes with a Rhone-y, tarry, earthy berryish quality that stays on for a while, and is about as close to an ideal backyard barbeque wine as you're likely to find in its price range (about $13 locally). It grows on you, and I picked up a second bottle two days later despite the fact that I tried to pick it apart when I first opened bottle1. Reminds me of '60s and '70s Lodi-area zins: farmers' wines, and I like it. According to Alain Teutschmann, Mount Tehama's owner, he has pretty good distribution in our part of the state, but those of you living anywhere south of Chico or in other parts of the country will probably be best advised to contact the winery and have it shipped directly to you. Their website can be found at mtwinery.com.
Next, we revisit the issue that plagues my (almost) every evening out: the lack of attention paid by so many otherwise good restaurateurs to the quality of their wine and bar operations. As most of you know, it drives me insane to see a poorly conceived and presented wine list in the hands of a wait staffer in a restaurant that I know to have an excellent kitchen, or to order a Black Bush on the rocks from a bartender in a fine house and receive a blank stare in response. Why does this happen? It makes no sense at all to me. It's just not that hard (or expensive) to train your crew in the basics of wines and spirits, to taste them through the spectrum of the common varietals and turn on the lights in their heads. You'll be surprised at the number of them who really care and want to learn, some because they're interested in making more money(increased sales equal increased tips), and some because they just want to be good at their jobs. And the beauty of it is that your purveyors will do the work for you (and usually foot at least part of the costs as long as you're buying from them). Come on, use your heads...
Lastly, for tonight at least, I can report that there has been no discernible UFO activity in or around Mt. Shasta during the last couple of weeks. Since discovering that we are living in full view of what is supposed to be a "portal" that sees quite regular traffic between our world and the other one, wherever it may be, my wife and I have been pretty conscientious about keeping an eye on the mountain, just in case, but we've seen nothing yet. However, we'll keep you informed.
I'm out for now.
But, back to work. It has occurred to me that I've neglected to bring to your attention several of our far-Norcal wines that we've recently had the pleasure of tasting (drinking, actually) that deserve some love, and I want to correct that over the next few days. As it happens, the two wineries that produce the three wines tasted so far are within a stone's throw of each other (if you can throw a stone a considerable distance); Mount Tehama Winery is at Manton, in Tehama County, and Lassen Peak Winery is just a handful of miles due north, at Shingletown, in Shasta County. Both these wineries are producing rustic, youthful wines from classic varietals, the most successful of which, at this point in time, seem to be the Rhone-ish and Spanish types/styles, which makes more than a little sense given the micro-climates they're working with. I haven't yet had time to taste the full range of offerings from either, but I've been happy enough with the ones I have to be convinced that I should (and will) get to the rest.
The Mount Tehama 2012 Petite Sirah is the first wine I encountered from this little foothills-but-almost-mountainous area, and I liked it even though it has some minor issues that almost disappear with a little air, and will likely age out with a bit more bottle time. The wine is deeply colored and aromatic, with a restrained cedar note overlaying the black fruit and tar, and the nose opens immediately as the cork is pulled. The fruit is very forward, ripe-plummy and blackberryish, and a little bit hot at first (I said rustic, remember?), but it begins to smooth out and soften soon after opening. It finishes with a Rhone-y, tarry, earthy berryish quality that stays on for a while, and is about as close to an ideal backyard barbeque wine as you're likely to find in its price range (about $13 locally). It grows on you, and I picked up a second bottle two days later despite the fact that I tried to pick it apart when I first opened bottle1. Reminds me of '60s and '70s Lodi-area zins: farmers' wines, and I like it. According to Alain Teutschmann, Mount Tehama's owner, he has pretty good distribution in our part of the state, but those of you living anywhere south of Chico or in other parts of the country will probably be best advised to contact the winery and have it shipped directly to you. Their website can be found at mtwinery.com.
Next, we revisit the issue that plagues my (almost) every evening out: the lack of attention paid by so many otherwise good restaurateurs to the quality of their wine and bar operations. As most of you know, it drives me insane to see a poorly conceived and presented wine list in the hands of a wait staffer in a restaurant that I know to have an excellent kitchen, or to order a Black Bush on the rocks from a bartender in a fine house and receive a blank stare in response. Why does this happen? It makes no sense at all to me. It's just not that hard (or expensive) to train your crew in the basics of wines and spirits, to taste them through the spectrum of the common varietals and turn on the lights in their heads. You'll be surprised at the number of them who really care and want to learn, some because they're interested in making more money(increased sales equal increased tips), and some because they just want to be good at their jobs. And the beauty of it is that your purveyors will do the work for you (and usually foot at least part of the costs as long as you're buying from them). Come on, use your heads...
Lastly, for tonight at least, I can report that there has been no discernible UFO activity in or around Mt. Shasta during the last couple of weeks. Since discovering that we are living in full view of what is supposed to be a "portal" that sees quite regular traffic between our world and the other one, wherever it may be, my wife and I have been pretty conscientious about keeping an eye on the mountain, just in case, but we've seen nothing yet. However, we'll keep you informed.
I'm out for now.
Tuesday, January 13, 2015
Caldwell and Jorgeson on El Cap, New Clairvaux's Albarino, and preparing to head for the coast for a few days
Let's start with something uplifting this time: Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson's incredible attack on El Capitan's Dawn Wall, which is now in its 19th day. Don't know how many of you might be following this adventure, but even if you've never given rock climbing or mountaineering a second thought you can hardly have missed the national (and international) coverage that this amazing climb is generating. Caldwell, from Estes Park, Colorado, and Jorgeson, from Santa Rosa, California, are attempting a free climb of Yosemite's El Capitan's "Dawn Wall", a 3000 ft. more-or-less sheer granite face, meaning they are using nothing except their own hands and feet in the attempt, employing ropes only as lifelines in case of a fall, of which there have been a few. This is a feat that has never been accomplished, and one which many, if not most in the climbing community believed never would. Whether it will is still in some doubt, but the likelihood is growing much stronger now that Kevin has regrouped, finally overcome the brutal and dangerous pitch 15 after nearly a week's delay in trying to get past the treacherous area, and caught up to Tommy. Both climbers are now pushing for a summit within the next day or so, or so it appears. We wish them the very best of luck, and hope to see a successful summit this week. If you would like to see more in-depth reporting, and from a guy who has serious climbing credentials of his own, as well as some phenomenal photos of the climb in progress, go to Tom Evans's website: just google El Cap Reports. You'll be hooked...
We've written recently about several Norcal wines that have caught our attention, and we have mentioned New Clairvaux's barbera and their albarino, as well. We recently had a bottle of their viognier, believing that, based on the quality of the barbera and albarino, it was also likely to be a well-made and varietally true wine, and so it was. The viognier is fresh, fruity, forward, and just slightly firm toward the finish, a sign that it might take another year in bottle and develop some complexity. However, that being said, and also acknowledging I like the viognier a little more stylistically, I have to say that I believe that New Clairvaux has a potential gamebreaker in its albarino; I like that wine a lot, and I like it more every time I have it. Aimee Sunseri, New Clairvaux's winemaker, apparently has a feel for the grape, and she does a remarkable job with it. Having had the opportunity to enjoy several bottles by now, and to get responses from friends whose palates I respect, as well, I feel very comfortable recommending it highly; it's very versatile as a wine list addition, because it is equally enjoyable as a cocktail or aperitif wine as it is serviceable with many menu items in most restaurants. Try it; you'll be glad...
And, happy to say, we've convinced ourselves that it's time to head for the coast for a few days of recoup and regroup. I intend to email our friends in the Emerald Forest tomorrow to reserve a cabin in the redwoods for a couple of tired-out north-valley types to hide out in for a while, drink some good wine, eat some great seafood, and just hike, read, and watch the ocean roll in. It makes life seem sweeter.
I'm out for a few days. Take care.
We've written recently about several Norcal wines that have caught our attention, and we have mentioned New Clairvaux's barbera and their albarino, as well. We recently had a bottle of their viognier, believing that, based on the quality of the barbera and albarino, it was also likely to be a well-made and varietally true wine, and so it was. The viognier is fresh, fruity, forward, and just slightly firm toward the finish, a sign that it might take another year in bottle and develop some complexity. However, that being said, and also acknowledging I like the viognier a little more stylistically, I have to say that I believe that New Clairvaux has a potential gamebreaker in its albarino; I like that wine a lot, and I like it more every time I have it. Aimee Sunseri, New Clairvaux's winemaker, apparently has a feel for the grape, and she does a remarkable job with it. Having had the opportunity to enjoy several bottles by now, and to get responses from friends whose palates I respect, as well, I feel very comfortable recommending it highly; it's very versatile as a wine list addition, because it is equally enjoyable as a cocktail or aperitif wine as it is serviceable with many menu items in most restaurants. Try it; you'll be glad...
And, happy to say, we've convinced ourselves that it's time to head for the coast for a few days of recoup and regroup. I intend to email our friends in the Emerald Forest tomorrow to reserve a cabin in the redwoods for a couple of tired-out north-valley types to hide out in for a while, drink some good wine, eat some great seafood, and just hike, read, and watch the ocean roll in. It makes life seem sweeter.
I'm out for a few days. Take care.
Thursday, January 8, 2015
More wine, our best to France, and thoughts on a book
First things first: I know that we have a number of readers in several European countries, including France. I hope that they see this within the next few days, if for no other reason than for them to know that we here, like all our right-thinking countrymen, stand with them in this terrible time. We are resolved to do all necessary to put an end to this senseless brutality, and we support them in their efforts to find and punish whoever is responsible for this cowardly act.
So, having gotten that off my chest, I guess this will be a fairly brief note only because there are more important things going on in the world at the moment (as there always are, but not always as outrageous as this particular incident).
One thing that has kept me entertained for the past few days is that I have just taken delivery of a couple of cases of assorted Martinelli wines that have been sitting at the winery for the past year or so as I shuttled back and forth between home (California) and New Mexico, where I was obsessed by a project involving trying to save a failing golf club (we were not successful, unfortunately). I had almost forgotten about the wines until Martinelli's Denise Robuchaitis, who I suspect is a customer-relations specialist, or should be if she's not, contacted me to inquire as to when I'd be claiming them. Long story made short, she got them off to me in a far more efficient manner than I deserved, and they showed up at my front door in short order. I admit that I always feel a little hypocritical when I indulge my weakness for the wines of a couple of "superhero" producers, Martinelli being one, but I can't help myself: I've been a fan of these wineries (Mayacmas is the other) since the dawn of wine-time, and I've continued to bite the bullet and buy a few bottles each year even as prices continued to climb. I doubt that I'll ever give them up, unless something dramatic and unexpected happens: Bob Travers has finally decided to hand-off Mayacamas to its next caretakers, so we'll see how that goes, but Martinelli seems to be set for continuing family control into the foreseeable future and should be (I hope) a stable ship. At any rate, I continue to brave my wife's flanking maneuvers and appeals to common sense (in truth, who does really need a $90 pinot noir or a $65 cabernet?) and buy them in moderation when my annual opportunities come around. And I still think it's money well spent...
In closing, just a little tickler for those of you who are true and dedicated students of gastronomy: my question is this: how long has it been (if ever) that you sat down with your copy of Larousse's Gastronomique and just opened it at random and started reading? Try it. I guarantee you a full evening of fascination. It is an astounding work that transports food people (not just chefs and restaurateurs) back to a different world, when great cooks were viewed almost the same way as magicians and conjurers, so mysterious and complex was their craft. Reading its entries is almost an adventure, and it's easy to picture the ingredients as they are described, as well as to imagine the dishes coming together as the preparations are playing out. If you don't have a copy, go buy one; used book stores and flea markets are the best sources, because you'll usually find 30 or 40 year-old copies in well-cared-for condition with evident history of former owners at next-to-nothing prices. These old pre-owned books have a nice feel, and they need a home, so invest in one. It's a purchase you'll appreciate for many, many years to come, and you'll get a lot of enjoyment from it. And you'll learn a lot.
Okay, that's it for now.
So, having gotten that off my chest, I guess this will be a fairly brief note only because there are more important things going on in the world at the moment (as there always are, but not always as outrageous as this particular incident).
One thing that has kept me entertained for the past few days is that I have just taken delivery of a couple of cases of assorted Martinelli wines that have been sitting at the winery for the past year or so as I shuttled back and forth between home (California) and New Mexico, where I was obsessed by a project involving trying to save a failing golf club (we were not successful, unfortunately). I had almost forgotten about the wines until Martinelli's Denise Robuchaitis, who I suspect is a customer-relations specialist, or should be if she's not, contacted me to inquire as to when I'd be claiming them. Long story made short, she got them off to me in a far more efficient manner than I deserved, and they showed up at my front door in short order. I admit that I always feel a little hypocritical when I indulge my weakness for the wines of a couple of "superhero" producers, Martinelli being one, but I can't help myself: I've been a fan of these wineries (Mayacmas is the other) since the dawn of wine-time, and I've continued to bite the bullet and buy a few bottles each year even as prices continued to climb. I doubt that I'll ever give them up, unless something dramatic and unexpected happens: Bob Travers has finally decided to hand-off Mayacamas to its next caretakers, so we'll see how that goes, but Martinelli seems to be set for continuing family control into the foreseeable future and should be (I hope) a stable ship. At any rate, I continue to brave my wife's flanking maneuvers and appeals to common sense (in truth, who does really need a $90 pinot noir or a $65 cabernet?) and buy them in moderation when my annual opportunities come around. And I still think it's money well spent...
In closing, just a little tickler for those of you who are true and dedicated students of gastronomy: my question is this: how long has it been (if ever) that you sat down with your copy of Larousse's Gastronomique and just opened it at random and started reading? Try it. I guarantee you a full evening of fascination. It is an astounding work that transports food people (not just chefs and restaurateurs) back to a different world, when great cooks were viewed almost the same way as magicians and conjurers, so mysterious and complex was their craft. Reading its entries is almost an adventure, and it's easy to picture the ingredients as they are described, as well as to imagine the dishes coming together as the preparations are playing out. If you don't have a copy, go buy one; used book stores and flea markets are the best sources, because you'll usually find 30 or 40 year-old copies in well-cared-for condition with evident history of former owners at next-to-nothing prices. These old pre-owned books have a nice feel, and they need a home, so invest in one. It's a purchase you'll appreciate for many, many years to come, and you'll get a lot of enjoyment from it. And you'll learn a lot.
Okay, that's it for now.
Monday, January 5, 2015
Back to Lemon Grass (Sacramento) and Other Holiday Stuff
Well, it was fun at times, but all in all, I'm glad it's over.
The holiday season is generally overhyped and oversold. Don't get me wrong, I love my family as much as the next guy, and I look forward to seeing and being with them (for reasonable lengths of time). However, everybody needs to understand that there is a shelf-life for everything, and we have far exceeded that for the holidays now that we've managed to stretch them for a full 2 months plus some. By the time my wife and I turned onto our little mountain road and crept quietly back into our corner of heaven we were ready to hide out for a while. And I truly believe that most, if not all, of our fiends and relatives who found themselves ensnared in like traps felt the same when they were finally able to usher out the last guest, or wave goodbye to hosts as they backed out of driveways and turned toward home. Fun is fun, but enough is...
Having said all that, and probably ticked off at least one friend, in-law, or cousin, I have to admit that holiday travels do have a few upsides, one of which is the opportunity to dine in much-loved restaurants that you don't get to see often enough because of time and distance. One such eatery is Lemon Grass in Sacramento, Mai Pham's long-time Asian Fusion restaurant that serves as a neighborhood dining room for many locals. Situated in what used to be, many years back, a hamburger joint (A&W Root Beer, I think), the place is relatively small and unobtrusive; you can miss it if you're not paying attention. However, it's better if you don't, because the food is consistently superb: fresh, imaginative, immaculately prepared, and delicious. The only let-down for me, ever, has been the wine list, which doesn't measure up to the menu for imagination or depth, but is still serviceable. (It never fails to baffle me why so many good restaurateurs allow a second-rate wine list to detract from the overall experience of their clientele, but you already know that, so I'll leave it alone for now.) Anyway, the spring rolls were as light, fresh, and delicately delicious as always, and I had as good a seared ahi steak as I've been served anywhere, perfectly prepared and almost creamy on the palate, nicely set off by two sauces, the best of which was a black bean puree that was pretty close to genius. Didn't get a chance to ask question of our server since we were there on Christmas Eve and the dining room was slammed, but I would like to know exactly how it was made. Wonderful place, and you should try it if ever in Sacramento with a free evening on your hands; you'll be very glad you did, I think. It's restaurants like Lemon Grass that prove the point of quality enduring.
Two more items before I close this one out: first, as some of you know, my wife and I are lucky enough to have lived the last 8 years of our lives high on this hill in the very tip-top of the Sacramento Valley, with a wondrous view of both Shasta and Lassen from our home, the former to the far left (due north) and the latter to the far right (east-southeast). Being a mountain person, I've made an effort to learn as much about each of those 2 great peaks as I can, and recently, with time on my hands, idly Googled Mt. Shasta just to see what would pop up that particular day. Well, I can't tell you how pleased I was to see websites for a bunch of UFO-loonies glowing there on the screen; seems that Shasta is a portal (or wormhole, in their parlance) into another dimension from whence flying saucers pass from there (wherever it is) to here (here being here, where you and I live). Apparently this occurs on a fairly regular basis, judging by the number of people posting who claimed to have witnessed the act. I have to admit that this beats the hell out of me: I watch the mountain every single day under all sorts of conditions, rain or snow or blue sky, and I've missed all that. I'm skeptical. But who knows...I've been wrong before.
Second, for you wine lovers, another barbera. As you'll know if you read this letter on a regular basis (a few of you do, I'm sure of it), we touted a barbera from Boeger a few weeks back, and enjoyed it so much that we drank several more bottles in the following days and began searching out other examples of the grape, having neglected it in favor of more stylish varietals over the past few years. I'm ashamed to admit that, because barbera (Louis Martini 1970 sticks in my mind) was one of my favorite indulgences (at 4.99/bottle) during that long youthful time when I had no money but a lot of fun, not unlike now, when I have no money but am older and still having some fun. Anyway, I've fallen in love all over again thanks to Greg Boeger's heads-up, and have now discovered another beauty; maybe not as assertive and grab-you-by-the-scruff-of-the-neck as Boeger's, but really good, and from nearby New Clairvaux in Vina, near Chico. New Clairvaux's 2012 is a different wine than Boeger's, being softer and more fruit-forward, and drinking best as soon as the cork is pulled, while the Boeger benefits quite a lot from an hour's air, and both are excellent and well worth your time searching out. Boeger's wines enjoy fairly wide distribution even outside California, but you'll probably have to work harder to find the New Clairvaux; you might visit their website for some clues as to availability, or email the winery for help.
Okay, enough for now. Some guys with chainsaws are here to start taking apart an old canyon oak that came down during the recent storms and which is now lying across a small ravine separating our property from our neighbor, and which will almost certainly cause the run-off flowing through said ravine to back up and flood said neighbor's hillside when the next storms arrive if left where it is.
Until next time.
The holiday season is generally overhyped and oversold. Don't get me wrong, I love my family as much as the next guy, and I look forward to seeing and being with them (for reasonable lengths of time). However, everybody needs to understand that there is a shelf-life for everything, and we have far exceeded that for the holidays now that we've managed to stretch them for a full 2 months plus some. By the time my wife and I turned onto our little mountain road and crept quietly back into our corner of heaven we were ready to hide out for a while. And I truly believe that most, if not all, of our fiends and relatives who found themselves ensnared in like traps felt the same when they were finally able to usher out the last guest, or wave goodbye to hosts as they backed out of driveways and turned toward home. Fun is fun, but enough is...
Having said all that, and probably ticked off at least one friend, in-law, or cousin, I have to admit that holiday travels do have a few upsides, one of which is the opportunity to dine in much-loved restaurants that you don't get to see often enough because of time and distance. One such eatery is Lemon Grass in Sacramento, Mai Pham's long-time Asian Fusion restaurant that serves as a neighborhood dining room for many locals. Situated in what used to be, many years back, a hamburger joint (A&W Root Beer, I think), the place is relatively small and unobtrusive; you can miss it if you're not paying attention. However, it's better if you don't, because the food is consistently superb: fresh, imaginative, immaculately prepared, and delicious. The only let-down for me, ever, has been the wine list, which doesn't measure up to the menu for imagination or depth, but is still serviceable. (It never fails to baffle me why so many good restaurateurs allow a second-rate wine list to detract from the overall experience of their clientele, but you already know that, so I'll leave it alone for now.) Anyway, the spring rolls were as light, fresh, and delicately delicious as always, and I had as good a seared ahi steak as I've been served anywhere, perfectly prepared and almost creamy on the palate, nicely set off by two sauces, the best of which was a black bean puree that was pretty close to genius. Didn't get a chance to ask question of our server since we were there on Christmas Eve and the dining room was slammed, but I would like to know exactly how it was made. Wonderful place, and you should try it if ever in Sacramento with a free evening on your hands; you'll be very glad you did, I think. It's restaurants like Lemon Grass that prove the point of quality enduring.
Two more items before I close this one out: first, as some of you know, my wife and I are lucky enough to have lived the last 8 years of our lives high on this hill in the very tip-top of the Sacramento Valley, with a wondrous view of both Shasta and Lassen from our home, the former to the far left (due north) and the latter to the far right (east-southeast). Being a mountain person, I've made an effort to learn as much about each of those 2 great peaks as I can, and recently, with time on my hands, idly Googled Mt. Shasta just to see what would pop up that particular day. Well, I can't tell you how pleased I was to see websites for a bunch of UFO-loonies glowing there on the screen; seems that Shasta is a portal (or wormhole, in their parlance) into another dimension from whence flying saucers pass from there (wherever it is) to here (here being here, where you and I live). Apparently this occurs on a fairly regular basis, judging by the number of people posting who claimed to have witnessed the act. I have to admit that this beats the hell out of me: I watch the mountain every single day under all sorts of conditions, rain or snow or blue sky, and I've missed all that. I'm skeptical. But who knows...I've been wrong before.
Second, for you wine lovers, another barbera. As you'll know if you read this letter on a regular basis (a few of you do, I'm sure of it), we touted a barbera from Boeger a few weeks back, and enjoyed it so much that we drank several more bottles in the following days and began searching out other examples of the grape, having neglected it in favor of more stylish varietals over the past few years. I'm ashamed to admit that, because barbera (Louis Martini 1970 sticks in my mind) was one of my favorite indulgences (at 4.99/bottle) during that long youthful time when I had no money but a lot of fun, not unlike now, when I have no money but am older and still having some fun. Anyway, I've fallen in love all over again thanks to Greg Boeger's heads-up, and have now discovered another beauty; maybe not as assertive and grab-you-by-the-scruff-of-the-neck as Boeger's, but really good, and from nearby New Clairvaux in Vina, near Chico. New Clairvaux's 2012 is a different wine than Boeger's, being softer and more fruit-forward, and drinking best as soon as the cork is pulled, while the Boeger benefits quite a lot from an hour's air, and both are excellent and well worth your time searching out. Boeger's wines enjoy fairly wide distribution even outside California, but you'll probably have to work harder to find the New Clairvaux; you might visit their website for some clues as to availability, or email the winery for help.
Okay, enough for now. Some guys with chainsaws are here to start taking apart an old canyon oak that came down during the recent storms and which is now lying across a small ravine separating our property from our neighbor, and which will almost certainly cause the run-off flowing through said ravine to back up and flood said neighbor's hillside when the next storms arrive if left where it is.
Until next time.
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